Backpacking the Northwest

Chinook and Cayuse passes have closed for the season after the state Department of Transportation reviewed a snowy forecast and assessed the avalanche risk.

Due to heavy snow accumulation on the roadway, DOT crews temporarily closed Chinook Pass just after 7:30 a.m. on Saturday. Crews assessed the stability of the hillside on Sunday morning, and determined the avalanche risk is too great to allow traffic to safely cross Chinook Pass and Cayuse Pass.

Since Friday, Chinook Pass has received more than three feet of snow. More snow is forecast.

The Highway 410 Chinook Pass closure points are at Morse Creek (five miles east of the summit) and at Crystal Mountain Boulevard (eight miles northwest of the summit). Access to the Crystal Mountain Ski Resort from Highway 410 remains open.

DOT and the Mount Rainier National Park staff agreed to close Highway 123 (Cayuse Pass) for the season. The highway is closed within Mount Rainier National Park from the 4,675-foot Cayuse Pass summit at the junction of Highways 410 and 123 to Steven Canyon Road. DOT closes each pass for the winter due to high avalanche risk and hazardous driving conditions.

Stay tuned for the trip report (I know it’s somewhere around here…) I hiked this in Sept. 2004 with two friends. It was a blast something different than either Mt. Hood or Mt. Rainier.

Here is a link to some photos of the trip  Mt. Adams Gallery on Eyehike

Also here are some maps and route profiles, and overviews  Adams route info

Latourell Falls is a wonderful introduction to the many waterfalls along the Columbia River Gorge. It is a plunge falls with a height of 249 feet. You can access the main or lower falls from the parking lot in the Guy W. Talbot State Park; this falls on Latourell Creek is named after Joseph Latourell, a prominent Columbia River Gorge settler. It is on the Historic Highway, 3.4 miles west of Exit 28 off I-84. It’s a short walk from the park’s picnic area to the viewpoint. The upper Falls is also a plunge falls with a height ranging between 75-100 feet. You can get behind the falls if you choose to cool off on a hot summer day. In winter the ice forms thickly and makes for beautiful pictures. To get to falls, travel another 0.8 of a mile along the trail from Latourell Falls (above). Continue on the trail to finish the loop back at the parking lot.
Trailhead:
You can get there from I-84. If you’re coming from the west, you can exit at Troutdale (Exit 17), Lewis and Clark State Park (Exit 18), Corbett (Exit 22), Bridal Veil (Exit 28 or Dodson (Exit 35). If you’re coming from the east, you can exit at Dodson [Exit 35], Bridal Veil [Exit 28] or Corbett (Exit 22].
(Lat:45.53882 Lon:-122.2177)

Some reviews of this hike

Reviewed by Jennifer on 12/17/2006
This is a spectacular set of waterfalls. The lower falls were roaring with all of the rain and snow that we’ve been having here. A breathtaking 250 ft. plunge. The upper falls are well worth the hike. A roaring two tier plunge that I had all to myself. The approach to the base of the falls was extremely slick and icy so you cannot approach the base in the winter when it’s really cold. One note: The trail loop to the upper falls has exposed cliffs and dropoffs that are very dangerous. Near the top of the lower falls there is a fence. For the love of God to not go past this fence. It is EXTREMELY dangerous. Some fools have bushwacked a trail to the cliff. If you slip it’s 250 feet to your death over the waterfall onto the rocks below.

Reviewed by Steve on 9/14/2006
The waterfalls on this hike are very pretty and I mean gorgeous. The rest of the scenery was rather disappointing for the gorge, lots of brambles and brush, not many views. The trail to the base of the falls is paved and easy. The trail to the upper falls is really steep to start with, no matter which way you walk the loop. The eastern side of the loop has some nice side views of the lower falls, the west side is boring, regrowth maple forest. The upper viewpoint of (Lower) Latourell Falls (off the main trail) is VERY dangerous and I recomend staying on the trail. If you’re a waterfall freak, don’t miss this one. If you’re looking for old growth or scenic vistas, it’s not that great.

Reviewed by Geoffrey on 11/2/2005
Initial elevation change a little rough for the little ones, I had to lie to my 5 year old a bit more than usual to coax her along. The lower falls standard water falling off a cliff is juxtaposed against a pretty unique upper fall geometry, I’ve some photos available at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ludt/ in the “search by tag” search box enter “latourel falls”

Reviewed by Sherrie on 6/21/2005
I took my mom on this hike – it’s easy and beautiful, and if you want a nice beautiful hike without having to take all day, this is a great one! Not far away is the Vista House which is a nice stop-off. For more Photos click here: http://photobucket.com/albums/y152/Tanapics/Latourell%20Falls/

Reviewed by PK on 4/20/2005
It is a nice trail for a leisurely hike. The views from the top of the Columbia River below are very nice. The downside of the trail is that it can be pretty crowded on a nice weekend.

Reviewed by Jodi S. on 8/29/2003
Very good, maintained trail. Start out from the parking lot and climb the asphalt trail is the best way to view the falls. After viewing the falls, there are numerous trails that go in different directions, the first part of the trail that V’s out, stay to the left ( going uphill ) will actually take you back down to the parking lot.

There is also parking at an alternate trailhead on Mt. Pleasant Road or Strunk Road. Directions to these locations are not provided in this review. 

There are no bathrooms at the trailhead.

Length and Elevation:
8 Miles, Elevation gain 1,500 and loss 1,500,  total 3,000 Feet in elevation change.

Trail:
Cape Horn Trail

Trail Maps:
Topo Map

Review: June 16, 2007
This is a great low-elevation hike in the Gorge. Late May through the end of June have the best wildflower displays. In the late spring and summer the seasonal grows and the leaves infringes on the trail. You will definitely want rain pants for this first part of the trail if there is any chance of rain or early morning hiking. Be sure your hiking shoes or boots have good traction because the first mile or so of the trail is only dry in summer.
There are several switchbacks to negotiate as the trail climbs up towards Pioneer Peak. In the spring there is Columbine, larkspur, and thimbleberry along the trail underneath the forest canopy. In late spring the cow parsnips bloom along with the tiger lilies. About 2/3 of the way up the switchbacks is a fair grouping of tiger lilies by the trail. About a mile in, there is a junction to an alternate parking site on Mt. Pleasant road.
Parking is along the wide shoulder of Mt. Pleasant road. Walk up the 4-wheel drive road and turn right and uphill where there is a junction with a lesser used 4-wheel drive road. Walk past the BPA powerlines and look to the left for a trail that leads downhill to the Cape Horn trail. On the day that I hiked this trail, just uphill from the access trail, is a brown sign on the 4-wheel drive trail that show Cape Horn up the 4-wheel drive road. I advise using the access trail and not the 4-wheel drive road.
The trail becomes steep, levels out for a bit, then climbs again. The trail comes up to an overlook along some cliffs that have a terrific view of the Gorge. You can see Multnomah Falls, Beacon Rock, cows grazing in the field, and boats going up and down the river. Follow the trail along the cliffs and you will come out on a cape that also has a commanding view of the Gorge. Backtrack about 75 feet from the cape and you will come back to a trail junction. Take a left and head downhill from the junction.  The trail descends a few switchbacks and comes out in the woods on a 4-wheel drive road. Make a left and follow the road into the woods for less than 1/10 of a mile and make a left on an ATV trail. This is the first left you can make after joining the 4-wheel drive road. The trail comes out on a paved road, Strunk Road. Directly across the road there should be a sign on a tree pointing to the trail. Take a bearing of about 145 degrees true north and cross the field to a gravel road. Turn right and follow the gravel road past a property that is owned by the Friends of the Columbia Gorge land trust. Walk along the chain-link fence and continue the same direction downhill through a meadow. The trail enters the woods at the bottom of the meadow. After entering the woods and descending about ¼ on some switchbacks, you will enter a clearing that has nice views of the Gorge. The trees have been cut at the clearing because it is the beginning of the fencing that protects the highway and cars below from rocks falling off the cliffs. You can’t see the road because it is so close to the cliff. You will see some of the retention cables as you walk down the trail. The trail then switchbacks down towards highway 1The trees have been cut at the clearing because it is the beginning of the fencing that protects the highway and cars below from rocks falling off the cliffs. You can’t see the road because it is so close to the cliff. You will see some of the retention cables as you walk down the trail. The trail then switchbacks down towards highway 14. Just a short time before you get to Highway 14, you pass a building that looks like an outhouse. Perhaps there was a homestead near here. The trail comes out at Highway 14. Go straight across the road and descnd on the trail. Be careful crossing the highway because there is limited visibility and the cards zip around the corners. Take care of exposed skin because the trail descends through some stinging nettle crosses a small stream, climbs a bit, and continues through the woods. The trail comes to a 4-way junction. The right trail leads to parking on SR14 and the left trail leads to a view of a waterfall and an overlook of the gorge.
From the junction, the trail continues to descend and cross another small stream and then climbs back up some. This is the first rail where I’ve seen someone bring in 12 inch square concrete patio blocks for stepping stones so you don’t have to walk in the mud. The trail now drops down on a number of switchbacks and descends towards the Columbia River. One interesting place is where the trail comes out to a rock scree and you can see the next six switchbacks going down towards the river. The trail comes out almost above a tunnel portal on the Burlington Northern railroad. Turn left here and head east on the trail. After climbing several swithbacks across the broken basalt, you will hear a waterfall. Pretty soon you’ll se it come into view. Don’t worry about walking up the stream to approach it. After a few switchbacks, the trail drops back down and goes right behind the waterfall. When you get off the footpath and onto the paved road, stop and take a look around and above you. You can see SR 14 going around Cape Horn high above you. From here, follow the road uphill back to your car. Please respect the request not to park, pick up, or drop off hikers here so that the property owner doesn’t shut down access to this trail.

Enjoy the photos!!

Switchback Steve

We arrived at Timberline Lodge about 8:30, which gave us until 9:00 to meet the rest of the group. Tori, Drew, and I walked up to the lodge and admired the displays about Timberline Lodge and its construction. I guess Heidi the St. Bernard is on vacation during the summer.
We met up with Mike and Marleese a little after 9 and we got ready to hit the trail. Drew wanted to hike the trail counter-clockwise, which was fine with all of us. We left about 9:30 after having our pictures taken in front of the Daylodge and then again with Mt. Hood in the background. The weather for the weekend promised to be clear with highs of about 75 degrees.
Drew led the way and the four of us followed. I stopped to take a few picture and dropped to the rear. While composing one of my pictures I stepped on my trekking poles and bent one of them. You would think I would know better! I got my camera put away, put pack back on, and headed down the trail along a ridge that dropped down to our first stream crossing at White River. We had to scout around for a way across the river. The streambed was a miniature canyon with steep sides and poor approaches. We found a way across, clambered up the sloughing bank, then spent a couple of minutes reacquiring the trail.

The trail follows the river downstream for about 500 feet then switchbacks up a ravine. From there the trail climbs until you come to the chairlifts of Mt. Hood Meadows. We followed the trail under several chairlifts and a couple of nice wildflower meadows with streams flowing through them. The group was hiking pretty fast and I was in the rear most of the morning. After several ups and downs, the trail brought us to Newton Creek, where we stopped for lunch. There was a spring-fed stream just before Newton Creek and I filled up my hydration pack and water bottle from the spring. Everyone else filtered water from the spring. Marleese, Mike, and Drew tended to their hot spots then we had lunch and prepared for the next ascent.

The bridge across Newton Creek is only two skimpy trees. Each of us wondered if we would make it across the muddy creek safely. We all made a dry crossing and started uphill on Gnarl Ridge. What a slog it turned out to be getting to the top of Lamberson Butte. The trail goes up for miles. At first you’re in the trees but they thin out as you gain elevation. By the time you reach the high point of the trail at 7300 feet, the trees are dwarf and you’re pretty well spent. Along the way you get great views of Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Jefferson. We also saw the smoke from the Log Springs fire on the Warm Springs Indian Reservation. Near the high point in the trail we passed a break in the last big snowfield and Tori found a stream to filter water from. The stream only appeared for 150 feet. Hikers who walk straight to the cairn instead of following the trail will probably miss this place to filter water from.

We thankfully headed down the trail to the Cooper Spur Shelter. We had our choice of campsites because we were the only campers there Friday night. It is a fantastic campsite. After dinner, Drew and I walked over to see Elliot Glacier with all its crevasses. Earlier in the day we had talked about hiking up to the 8400-foot level at Tie-in Rock but we agreed we were too tired. We set up our tents in a light wind and made dinner. The wind blew harder and a big gust pulled out a tent stake from the dusty soil and collapsed my tent. The wind sent the rest of the group scurrying to find rocks to anchor tents and make windbreaks.

We took refuge inside the stone shelter, talked for a while, then headed to bed. A fine layer of volcanic dust covered all the inside of our tents. You could even crunch it with your teeth sometimes. Each time a big gust blew my flashlight lit up a little cloud of dust floating into my tent. I put my earplugs in and slept as best I could. I think the wind quieted down around 3 a.m.

We got up around 5:30 a.m. and watched Mt. Adams and Mt. Rainier appear with beautiful sunrise. The sunrise was a beautiful as the sunset the night before. Everyone had interesting experiences to share. We all had dust. Mike had felt the tent pushing against him with every gust. Drew felt his feet get lifted with every big gust. Tori wondered if her tent stakes would hold down her tent. I found the stake that holds my tent up had almost pulled out again.

I had breakfast at camp and the rest of the group decided to pack up and make breakfast down at Tilly Jane Campground, near Cloud Cap Inn. It was nice to use the outhouse and talk to some of the campers. One group had also hiked from Timberline yesterday. They were planning to hike to Paradise Park tonight.

The rest of the group made breakfast and we washed some of the dust off of us. We hit the trail again about 8:30. The next crossing is the Elliot River. This is an easy crossing because a nice bridge has been airlifted in. We continued to have great views of Mt. Hood and the other distant volcanoes.

When we got to Coe Creek, we had a much harder time finding a dry crossing. We had met several people who had waded across. We looked around and were able to find a spot to rock-hop across the river.

The trail continues near the timberline and great views abounded. Elk Cove had expansive meadows and great views. Cairn Basin, where we had lunch, has a nice wildflower meadow with a view of Mt. Hood. I don’t understand why Cairn Basin is so popular. Other than the one small meadow, there are many other places on Mt. Hood that seem much more scenic.

We skipped going to McNeil Point but we talked to so many day hikers that we want to go back and see it sometime. From here the trail went along the top of a ridge, which gives outstanding views of Mt. Hood and McNeil Point.

On the trail towards Bald Mountain, Drew tripped on a root and fell down, banging up his knee and twisting his ankle. We waited for a while then I walked with him slowly. When we got to Bald Mountain we decided to take the PCT to Ramona Falls because it was shorter and should be a better trail than the Timberline. Most of the trail was switchbacks going down to the Muddy Fork of the Sandy River. It turns out the PCT has a detour to a new bridge. It is definitely a detour trail and not easy for someone with a tender ankle to negotiate. The new log bridge is sturdy and should last a long time. The trail hooks into the trail to Ramona Falls shortly after the log crossing. From there it is about 2 miles up to Ramona Falls. We got to the falls and found a group of students from Springwater High School in Gresham that had hiked over the past week from Timberline Lodge. They were nice enough to show us the group camping area. It is located about 500 feet Southeast of the falls. There was plenty of room at the campsites for all of us and we soon had our tents set up. We rested, filtered water for the next day, then made dinner. I accidentally left a granola bar out and by the time I found it, only the wrapper remained. I had lain down to eat some trail mix and some nuts spilled out. I looked at the bag and saw chew marks. The ground squirrel had sampled that too!

After dinner we talked more and then headed off to bed once again. When I got up during the night the full moon made stark shadows through the trees. The night was still pretty warm and the bugs had gone to bed for the night too. I went back to sleep but was awoken by some animal that sounded like a fire alarm klaxon over and over again. I had to dig out my earplugs again before I could get back to sleep. The next morning Drew said he thought a bat flying over our camp had made the noise. Tori slept right through the night and hadn’t heard a thing.

Sunday morning dawned clear and about 50 degrees. Mike and Marleese wanted to get an early start and had soon packed up and finished their breakfast. The rest of us had breakfast and broke camp. From Ramona Falls the trail joins into the PCT and goes from 3400 feet to 5900 feet at Paradise Park. On the way up we had great views of Slide Mountain and some waterfalls. We stopped at the ruins of the Paradise Park Shelter, which is on the South end of Paradise Park. I took a side trail while Drew rested his ankle and Tori headed down the trail.

Drew and I started down the trail to Zigzag River. After dropping about 1000 feet, we came to an old avalanche that had made a snow bridge across Zigzag River. We crossed, staying away from the edge and the holes in the snow. We speculated how long it would be before someone fell through because we had heard the snow bridge was only a couple of feet thick in some places. We stood by the creek and let the cool air wash over us. It was like standing in front of a giant freezer with the door open. You could actually see and feel a cool fog coming out where the stream came out from underneath the snow. From the river, the trail steeply switchbacks to cross the next ridge at 5700-feet. The terrain becomes drier and sandier as you go more up than down and cross a couple of small creeks. Pretty soon a communications tower, chairlift, and service road come into view. In less than a ½ mile further, we were back at Timberline Lodge.

We met back up with Tori and congratulated ourselves at the completion of a hike around another volcano. We packed up and headed towards Sandy where we met Mike and Marleese for Pizza.

What great weather we had on this hike. There are certainly some locations we intend to visit again. Including Paola’s Pizza in Sandy.

Switchback Steve

Originally uploaded by hikingdrew
Switchback Steve took this awesome shot the week after we made a summit in the freezing rain. While we could not even see the dome when I went, he returned to find the weather and the winds were cooperating.

Thanks Steve!

Directions:
From Portland, take I-5 north for about 70 miles. Take exit 68 from I-5 to Hwy 12. Drive about 59 miles from I-5 to Packwood. Drive about 13 more miles to the junction with Hwy 123. Turn left onto Hwy 123 and travel about 5 1/2 miles. Turn left onto Stevens Canyon Road and go through the park entrance. Continue several more miles to the Box Canyon parking lot on your left. The total drive is about 150 miles.

From Seattle, take Hwy 410 to Hwy 123. From Hwy 123, drive 12 miles and turn right onto Stevens Canyon Road and go through the park entrance. Continue several more miles to the Box Canyon parking lot on your left. The total drive is about 100 miles.

National Park entrance fee must be paid to enter Mt. Rainier National Park.

Flush toilets available at the Box Canyon parking lot

Length and Elevation:
15 Miles roundtrip, Elevation gain and loss total 8,000 Feet

Trail:
Wonderland Trail

Review: September 25, 2003
I called Longmire Friday afternoon to find out about reserving a campsite and Indian Bar. I would be going in at Ohanapecosh. The Ranger I spoke to thought I could self-register at the Ohanapecosh Ranger Station.

I arrived Saturday morning at the Ranger Station but there was nowhere to drop off my form. I was just about to jamb it into the door when a Ranger drove by. He was kind enough to take my form and I headed for Box Canyon.

I was the only car in the parking lot when I hit the trail at 9:30am. The trail to Nickel Creek is easy as it is relatively flat and wide. The recent flooding had not affected the bridge over Nickel Creek or the campsites. I headed up the switchbacks and was relieved to find the yellowjacket nest that was beside the trail in August is now gone. Climbing into the alpine meadows I had clear views of Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams, and other mountains to the south and east. There was plenty of places to get water along the trail because of the recent snow melt. On the descent to Indian bar were places where a lot of water had run down the trail . The trail was a little washed out in one spot so I threw some rocks around so it wouldn’t wash out further. The Ohanapecosh river at Indian Bar had seriously flooded the meadow north of the creek. The trail held up well but some new gullies were apparent.

I picked a campsite with a great view looking up the valley. I set up camp at 2:30 and hiked on up to Panhandle Gap with a much lighter pack. Beautiful views abounded as the trail quickly gains elevation and leaves the trees behind. There were excellent fall colors in some areas and the leaves had already fallen in others. About two miles from Indian Bar the trail crosses a couple of small but permanent ice fields. I had to look carefully for the trail in this area because of the flooding.

The trail through Panhandle Gap was excellent and there was only a small patch of snow on the trail. I returned back to Indian Bar camp at dark. The sky was perfectly clear and there was a light frost on the ground in the morning. I took some pictures at Indian Bar and headed back up the trail about 9am. The views on the way back were just as spectacular as Saturday. I met a group of four people who got a late start and had to camp along the trail. They were just about out of water but I assured them they would find water soon. I saw two other men hiking towards Indian Bar. You hear the noisy rush of water from many streams and waterfalls all along the trail. I had lunch along a seasonal stream in the switchbacks down to Nickel Creek. It was a great hike with not biting or stinging bugs. I got back to the parking lot at about 1:30pm. I think the section from Nickel Creek to Panhandle Gap and on to Summerland is one of the most scenic stretches of the Wonderland Trail because it is right at the treeline for much of the hike.

Overview

The John Muir Trail passes through what many backpackers say is the finest mountain scenery in the United States. This is a land of 13,000-foot and 14,000-foot peaks, of lakes in the thousands, and of canyons and granite cliffs. It’s also a land blessed with the mildest, sunniest climate of any major mountain range in the world.
The John Muir Trail is 211 miles long and runs (mostly in conjunction with the PCT) from Yosemite Valley to Mt Whitney, in California.

Because the John Muir Trail (JMT) trail ends (assuming you’re doing a north to south thru-hike) at the top of the highest point in the lower 48, even after “completing” the trail you still have to hike another 11 miles and 6000 ft. down to Whitney Portal, the southern trail head.

The JMT runs through 3 National Parks: Yosemite (Official NPS Page), Kings Canyon and Sequoia (Official NPS Page). When not within a National Park, it runs through Forest Service (Official Inyo National Forest Page) land, including the John Muir and Ansel Adams Wilderness areas. The trail also passes through the Devils Postpile National Monument near Red’s meadow.

Trail Profile